Dovetail layout – how to mark out tails step by step (Part 1)

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Dovetail Layout – How to Mark Out Tails Step by Step (Part 1)

Dovetail layout is the stage at which the geometry of the joint is defined. This is where accuracy, fit, and the final appearance of the joint are determined. The key elements are the baseline, reference edges, tail spacing, and clear waste marking.

Dovetail layout is the process of marking out the geometry of a dovetail joint before cutting, including the baseline, tail spacing, and waste areas.

This article is the first part of a practical guide to dovetail joints and focuses specifically on laying out the tails – a stage that, in real woodworking practice, is critical to the quality of the work.

Dovetail joints have become a symbol of traditional craftsmanship. A box made using dovetails has, in the woodworking world, grown to the status of a holy grail. Is it justified? Perhaps. From my perspective as a practitioner, someone who works daily with traditional tools and techniques, it is simply one of the joints I use when building furniture. Executing them correctly is no longer a challenge for me, and I do not see the level of difficulty often described on forums. But to be fair – it was not always like that. When I started woodworking, making a proper dovetail joint was my goal.

That is why today I will share my method for making dovetails. For participants of my woodworking courses, this will be a useful reminder, and for others, a set of practical guidelines that may help take your skills to the next level. Below, I show this process in practice – from layout to cutting dovetails. This is exactly the same method I use in the workshop every day, working with hand tools: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahbU-GnlVXM&t=24s.

What are dovetail joints?

A dovetail joint consists of tails, sockets, and pins, and its strength comes from the geometry of the joint.

Dovetails are a symbol of traditional woodworking because they clearly show what woodworking is really about – thoughtful construction based on joinery, not just glue. The joint itself takes on the stresses resulting from use, while the glue primarily plays a stabilizing role. This makes the joint very strong and rigid. In traditional woodworking, thinking about construction is measured in decades, not warranty periods.

The key to making dovetails, especially multiple-tail joints, is not strict adherence to a single method, but a deep understanding of the process. In practice, every woodworker develops their own method, aimed at reducing the risk of error. That is why the entire process is divided into stages – not to complicate it, but to maintain control.

Why is layout more important than cutting?

When working with dovetails, everything is decided at the layout stage. This is where we define the geometry of the joint and establish the boundary between material and waste.

This stage organizes the entire process. If it is done consciously and precisely, the following steps flow naturally from it. If not, problems appear later – most often during assembly, when something no longer fits.

In dovetail joinery, accuracy is not created during cutting. It is defined during layout. Layout determines the geometry and fit of the joint, while cutting simply follows the lines that have already been established.

What is dovetail layout?

Layout is the process of defining the arrangement of tails before cutting begins. It includes marking the baseline, defining reference edges, spacing the tails, and identifying the waste material.

It includes:

determining the relative position of the parts,
marking the baseline,
dividing the material into tails,
marking the waste to be removed.

How to lay out dovetails step by step

In practice, dovetail layout is not about strictly following one method, but about consciously defining the geometry of the joint and maintaining control over it. The entire process can be divided into several key stages:

mark the elements using a cabinetmaker’s triangle to clearly define their relationship,
establish the baseline by transferring the thickness of the mating piece,
determine the spacing of the tails – by eye, with a ruler, or with dividers,
mark out the tails using an appropriate template or guide,
make sure all lines meet precisely and extend slightly beyond the baseline, which makes control during sawing easier.

The process itself is straightforward: mark the parts, establish the baseline, divide the spacing of the tails, mark them out clearly, and define the waste areas before cutting.

Each of these elements directly affects the quality of the joint and determines whether the parts will fit together.

Stage 1: Marking the Parts

The first stage of marking out is correctly identifying the parts. For this I use a cabinetmaker’s triangle, both when making a box construction (a box, a drawer) and when making a simple “L” joint. In the case of a box construction, it looks as shown in Figure 1.

marking parts for dovetail joints with a cabinetmaker’s triangle box construction and L joint marking out Bensari Workshop — Figure 1. Marking the parts of a box construction for making dovetail joints. After choosing the position of each part, I draw a triangle linking the parts in pairs. On the opposite sides (green), I draw a triangle divided horizontally, and the corresponding longitudinal blue sides are marked with a triangle divided vertically.

In the case of an “L” construction, the markings look as shown in Photo 1.

marking parts for dovetail joints with a cabinetmaker’s triangle L joint reference edges marking out Bensari Workshop — Photo 1. Marking the parts when making a dovetail joint in an “L” construction. Even though I only have two parts here, as with a box construction I use a similar division of the triangles (vertical and horizontal).

In both cases, the markings I use define all the parts unambiguously in relation to one another. The markings always complete one triangle. In the case of the upper left corner in a box construction or “L” construction, the upper part marked with the upper half of the horizontally divided triangle joins the left part – the upper half of the vertically divided triangle. This creates a clearly defined marking system that helps avoid mistakes when making the joints.

When marking the parts, remember the following:

the parts are joined on the end grain,
we inspect the parts and, depending on the project, choose the more attractive faces of the boards for the more visible sides,
the faces on which the markings appear (the cabinetmaker’s triangle) also become the reference edges (see basic principles of marking out in woodworking), which makes marking out much easier. If necessary, we true them first,
the outside and inside of the triangle indicate the outer and inner faces of the parts,
the parts do not have to be of equal width provided that, when transferring tails to sockets, we always align them from one side only, preferably from the marked side.

With the parts marked in this way, they are ready for dovetail marking out.

Stage 2: Marking the Baseline

In dovetail joints, the baseline defines the height of the tails and is transferred from the thickness of the corresponding part, most often using a square or a marking gauge.

I begin marking out the tails by marking the baseline of their bases. To do this, I transfer the thickness of the corresponding part, as shown in Photo 2.

transferring the thickness of a part with a square marking the baseline of dovetail joints reference edge Bensari Workshop — Photo 2. Transferring the thickness of the corresponding part. I do this with a square registered against the reference edge.

I do this from the inside face of the part so that I can scribe the line precisely with a knife. To do that, I place the square against the reference edge and, while checking the contact with my finger, establish the position of the square from the outside.

setting the baseline of dovetail joints by referencing the corresponding part and checking contact marking out with a knife Bensari Workshop — Photo 3. Establishing the position of the baseline by registering the corresponding part against the square and checking the contact by touch.

Tip: If, on the part where we are marking the baseline, the side edge is not at a right angle to the reference edge, make sure that the corresponding part is fully hidden when marking the baseline. Later, during truing and cleaning up the part, we will remove any irregularities. Tip: A slight shift in the baseline can be used deliberately to achieve a desired effect. If the external dimension of part (A) matters most, we reduce the depth of the baseline on those parts. After glue-up, the tails will sit hidden in the sockets, and during flushing-up we remove material from part (B) down to the end grain of part (A), while preserving its external dimension.

Once I have established the position of the square, I remove the vertical part and scribe the line with a knife. I then continue the marking-out around the entire part according to the principles described in the article marking shoulders in woodworking with a square, with one difference: on the outside face of the part (the outside of the triangle), I temporarily mark the line in pencil. I do this so that, once the part is completed, no marking lines will be visible on the outside. The internal lines will not be visible, and the side lines will be cut away.

baseline marked on the outer face of a part during dovetail joint marking out with pencil indication Bensari Workshop — Photo 4. Baselines marked out during dovetail joint marking out.

At this point, we have the baseline marked out. In the case of box parts (a drawer, a box), one more issue appears: ensuring equal internal dimensions on opposite sides of the box, that is, ensuring a rectangular internal section. There are two ways to achieve this.

The first method is to use a marking gauge. Here, we prepare the parts so that they have the same length and a rectangular section, and then instead of the square-based method described above we can use a marking gauge. It should be remembered that, with a marking gauge, using it on edges that are not square to the reference edges will transfer an error during marking out. That makes this method a longer one, even though marking with a gauge itself is quick and pleasant.

The second method is to mark out with a square, as described earlier. To do this, we choose the shorter part from the appropriate pair (in Figure 1, the parts marked with the same colour) and mark the baselines from both sides of the shorter part. Then we bring the parts together so that the shorter part does not protrude from either end, and transfer the marked distance from the shorter part to the other one.

Tip: I rarely use marking gauges when marking out dovetail joints. Their use requires the precise dimensioning of all parts in terms of reference edges, length, and right angles in every section. This makes the method longer than using a square, where exact dimensioning outside the two reference edges can be omitted.

Tip: Sometimes a box construction also acts as a spacer between two tops. In that case, to ensure an equal distance between them, I first dimension precisely the parts that form the spacer (most often the vertical parts) of the box construction. Then, without risk, I use a marking gauge to mark the baselines.

Stage 3: Marking Out the Tails (Dovetails)

There is no single universal scheme for laying out dovetail joints; the arrangement depends on the function of the part – symmetry is generally preferred in hidden constructions, while visible work allows greater aesthetic freedom.

For marking out the tails, I use a pencil. According to my philosophy, I use a pencil only when precision is not my primary aim. Strange? No, because at this stage precision lies elsewhere. More on that in the next part of the article. I begin marking out the tails by establishing their setback from the edge. I usually use about 5 mm, as shown in Photo 5.

marked baselines of dovetail joints on wood showing setback from the edge Bensari Workshop — Photo 5. Dovetail setback from the edge of the part. I usually use about 5 mm.

Tip: If you are housing a bottom into, for example, a drawer, remember that a larger setback usually forces the bottom to be seated deeper. The groove for the lid is most often made within the opening of the tail so as not to damage the pins on the corresponding part.

Now it is time for the layout. There is no universal formula for establishing it. From a technical point of view, a greater number of symmetrically arranged tails can increase contact area and joint stiffness, but excessive subdivision weakens the pins and makes the joint more difficult to execute. Here, sound judgment and experience should guide us.

Tip: Wherever the joints will not be visible and strength matters most, I use even, symmetrical spacing at roughly 2-3 cm intervals (Photo 6). In visible elements, such as a drawer, aesthetic considerations often prevail, because even a less symmetrical layout provides more than enough strength for the loads it will encounter in practice, as shown in Photo 7.

box construction with dovetail joints symmetrical tail layout evenly spaced for strength Bensari Workshop — Photo 6. A box fitted between shelves with symmetrically laid-out dovetail joints designed to maximise the stiffness of the construction.

dovetail joints with asymmetrical tail layout in furniture parts aesthetic joint arrangement Bensari Workshop — Photo 7. Drawers made using dovetail joints with asymmetrical layouts. In this case, although the strength of the joints is slightly reduced, it is still more than sufficient to carry the loads they will encounter in practical use.

We can establish the layout by eye, with a rule, or with dividers, as shown in Photo 8. There are also special gadgets for laying out symmetrical divisions. I do not own them and do not see any reason to use them.

laying out dovetail joints with dividers marking tails on the end grain of a board Bensari Workshop — Photo 8. Establishing the layout with dividers.

Dovetail Angle and Templates

Typical dovetail proportions are 1:6 for hardwood and 1:8 for softwood, although in practice small deviations from these values do not significantly affect the strength of the joint.

If we’ve already settled on the layout, the next question is choosing the dovetail angle. Many traditional woodworkers cut dovetails more by eye than by strictly following fixed angles. I work primarily with hardwood and use a 1:6 ratio.

In the literature, you’ll find different proportions suggested—for example, 1:8 for hardwood and 1:6 for softwood. In practice, a few degrees one way or the other doesn’t make much difference.

In my method, I don’t refine the sockets with a chisel after sawing, and visually, the 1:6 angle simply looks right to me.

We have several types of templates available. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

templates for marking dovetail joints different types of angle guides 1 to 6 and 1 to 8 proportions Bensari Workshop — Photo 9. Templates for marking out dovetail joints.

Template 1, shown in Photo 10, allows you to mark both the square line on the end grain and the angled line on the sides at the same time. It has one important drawback – to mark the next line on the left side, I have to move the guide far to the left, largely beyond the marked part (Photo 10). With small dovetails this causes problems and consequently leads to errors, because the template hangs in the air and rests on only a small portion of the part.

marking dovetail joints with an angle template drawing tail lines in pencil on wood Bensari Workshop — Photo 10. A Veritas template that allows two lines to be marked out.

Template 2, shown in Photo 11, eliminates the drawbacks of the first. We mark the lines in one direction (Photo 12), and with this template we can do so from either the left or the right side. As a result, the template always rests with its full surface on the part. After marking all the lines, it is enough to turn it upside down to change the angle and mark the remaining lines in the other direction (Photo 13).

marking dovetail joints with a 1 to 6 template establishing tail angles on wood Bensari Workshop — Photo 11. A Veritas template that allows only one line to be marked out at a time.

marking dovetail joints with an angle template establishing tail lines on the end grain and side of a board Bensari Workshop — Photo 12. Marking all lines in one direction.

marking dovetail joints with an angle template continuing tail lines on the side of a board Bensari Workshop — Photo 13. Turning the template over and marking the lines in the opposite direction.

The drawback of this template is that it does not allow the square lines on the end grain of the board to be marked at the same time.

Template 3 is a universal template with as many as four ratios (Photo 14). That is its advantage. Apart from that, you have to be very careful not to confuse the ratios, and the foot is rather small.

Photo 14. Universal template for marking out dovetail joints.

It is possible to make such a template yourself, for example from wood; it is not especially complicated.

As I mentioned earlier, I mark out dovetails with a pencil. Even so, I take care of the following points:

the line on the end grain of the board should be drawn as precisely as possible at a right angle, either with a template or with a square,
the side lines should meet the line previously established on the end grain of the board. To achieve this, I first place the pencil on the board at the point where I feel the side line will meet the line on the end grain, and only then do I place the dovetail angle template (see Photos 12 and 13),
I usually extend the side lines beyond the previously established baseline of the dovetails – this later helps in judging the correctness of the saw cut on the sides of the tails, especially if the sawing has damaged the marked lines.

Tip: In box constructions such as drawers, if there are no contraindications, I mark out and then immediately cut the tails on both matching parts at the same time. This clearly shortens the working time and improves the feel for squareness on the end grain of the parts.

Summary

In work on dovetail joints in woodworking, the quality of the joint is decided at the marking-out stage, where the geometry of the joint is created and the boundary between material and waste is defined. In my experience, this is where all the most important decisions are made – the later stages are only their consequence.

Marking out brings order to the entire woodworking process. A lack of precision at this stage will come back to punish us and will affect either the fit or the appearance of the joint. That is why I attach so much importance to this moment – the conscious definition of lines. This is exactly what I teach in my carpentry courses. The next stage of the work will be cutting the tails – you can find the post here: Dovetail joints – cutting tails step by step (part 2) – Bensari Workshop

FAQ

How do you determine the spacing of dovetails?

Dovetail spacing can be determined in several ways – by eye, with a rule, or with dividers. In practice, there is no single universal scheme. In concealed construction, symmetrical spacing is often preferable because it can increase stiffness, whereas in visible elements greater freedom is possible and appearance may become the main consideration, especially when the parts are not exposed to heavy loads.

What angle should be used for dovetails?

Nowadays, with the tendency to frame everything in engineering terms, the literature recommends a 1:8 ratio for hardwood and 1:6 for softwood. In practice, small deviations from these values have little effect on the strength of the joint.

I use a 1:6 ratio, as it appeals to me most aesthetically. In the end, proper layout and accuracy of execution matter far more than achieving a perfectly precise angle.

Should dovetails be marked with a pencil or a knife?

Both tools are used, depending on the stage of the work. The baseline should be marked with a knife, either at the beginning or after the tails have been cut, because it determines the accuracy of the joint. The tails themselves can be laid out with a pencil, provided that your hand is steady and that you do not intend to refine them with a chisel after sawing.

What matters more – marking out or cutting?

Definitely marking out. This is the stage at which the geometry of the joint is established and the most important decisions are made. Cutting is only a reproduction of the previously defined lines. Even very precise sawing will not correct mistakes made during marking out.

How can mistakes in dovetail marking out be avoided?

The most important thing is to mark the parts unambiguously, for example with a cabinetmaker’s triangle, and to work consistently from the reference edges. It is also worth making sure that the relevant lines meet properly and remain clearly visible. A useful habit is to extend the lines slightly beyond the baseline, which makes visual control during sawing easier.

Is it necessary to use dovetail templates?

No, but they make the work much easier, especially at the beginning. Templates help maintain a consistent angle and reduce the risk of error. With experience, some woodworkers begin to establish the angles more by eye, especially where the joint will not be visible.

Tom Bensari

A Polish designer and master woodworker specializing in traditional woodworking techniques. He is the founder of the design studio Bensari Ébénistes and the independent workshop Bensari Workshop, where he conducts professional woodworking courses and workshops for participants of all skill levels. With years of experience and a deep passion for craftsmanship, Tom successfully combines functionality with artisanal precision, inspiring others to learn the art of woodworking. His unique collectible furniture pieces are represented by the prestigious New York gallery STUDIOTWENTYSEVEN, making him one of the few Polish designers present on the international functional art market. Tom Bensari is also the only Polish co-author featured in the renowned magazine Fine Woodworking, which has been promoting classical woodworking and handcraft traditions for decades. In 2024, he was a finalist in the Dobry Wzór competition, and in 2025 he received the Creative Wrocław distinction for his contribution to the development of contemporary craftsmanship and woodworking education.