{"id":6470,"date":"2026-05-11T22:23:59","date_gmt":"2026-05-11T20:23:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bensariworkshop.com\/jak-dlutowac-linie-bazowa-przy-polaczeniach-na-jaskolczy-ogon-dobor-dlut-i-technika-pracy-krok-po-kroku-czesc-3\/"},"modified":"2026-05-11T23:19:45","modified_gmt":"2026-05-11T21:19:45","slug":"how-to-chisel-the-base-line-in-dovetail-joints-chisel-selection-and-step-by-step-technique-part-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bensariworkshop.com\/en\/how-to-chisel-the-base-line-in-dovetail-joints-chisel-selection-and-step-by-step-technique-part-3\/","title":{"rendered":"How to chisel the base line in dovetail joints? Chisel selection and step-by-step technique (Part 3)"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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I run woodworking courses for both beginners and advanced hand tool users, and I believe that learning to work with a chisel should focus more on what not to do than on how to work with it. The difficulty of working with this tool lies in the fact that a chisel has neither a sole nor any fences that would guide it at the correct angle.<\/p>

What chisels will we need?<\/h2>

To make dovetail joints, we will need several chisels that we will use to chisel out the spaces between the tails and the two outer sections of the base line.<\/p>

How to choose the width of the chisels?<\/h3>

Chisel for working between the tails<\/h4>

For chiseling the spaces between the tails, it is best to use a chisel slightly wider than half the width of the socket. This allows you to work \u201cin two passes\u201d and maintain greater control over the tool.<\/p>

\"dovetail
Photo 1. Ideally selected chisel width for chiseling sections of the base line between the tails.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div><\/figure>

Watch out!<\/h4>
  1. If you choose a chisel that is too wide, you must be especially careful at the corners. Even if the chisel seems perfectly fitted, its cross-section may damage the tails. Usually the cross-section of the chisel does not match the cross-section of the tails, and often the closer it gets to the handle, the thicker the chisel becomes.<\/li>
  2. Photo 1 shows the optimal situation. The chisel is slightly wider than half of the base line section between the tails. This allows it to be safely positioned on the remaining part of the base line to be chiseled. If we use a chisel that is too wide, we will be left with too small a section of the base line, the chisel will be more prone to twisting and, as a result, damaging this line. The twisting effect in this case results from the lack of equal resistance acting on the chisel edge. Hold the chisel firmly and do not let it twist.<\/li>
  3. The same thing happens when we want to position the chisel too precisely and move it too close to the tail, meaning the corner, or slightly enter the tail with the chisel.<\/li><\/ol><\/div>

    Chisel for working at the ends of the base line<\/h3>

    The outer sections of the base line are more difficult to chisel than the spaces between the tails, because they require simultaneous control of two lines and perfect angle control.<\/p>

    1. We must be careful, because we have three lines to chisel, not two as in the case of the sections between the tails.<\/li>
    2. Any inaccuracy in this place will be additionally exposed, because these sections are affected by expansion forces. This is the opposite of the sections between the tails, where compressive forces act on the base line as a result of the construction of the joint. In these places, accuracy is a key condition for a proper joint.<\/li><\/ol>

      Over the years, I have developed a method for precisely chiseling the outer sections of the base line. We will need one or two chisel widths. The first should be slightly narrower than the width of the element, and the second slightly narrower than the outer sections of the base line. \u201cSlightly\u201d means 1\u20132 mm, no more. It may happen that one chisel meets both of these criteria, or even all three, including chiseling the base line sections between the tails.<\/p>

      \"dovetail
      Photo 2. Selecting the chisel size for chiseling the base line. We will need a chisel for chiseling the base line sections between the tails, marked No. 1 \u2014 slightly wider than half of this section; a chisel for the outer sections of the base line, marked No. 2 \u2014 slightly narrower than this section; and a chisel for the cross line, marked No. 3 \u2014 also slightly narrower than the width of the element. It may happen that one chisel meets all these criteria. Everything depends on the material and the project.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
      \u00a0<\/div><\/div><\/figure>

      What type of chisel should you choose for chiseling the base line?<\/h2>

      Dovetail chisels or fishtail chisels make it easier to work in narrow spaces between the tails thanks to the geometry of the edge adapted to the shape of the sockets.<\/p>

      There are many different types of chisels on the market and even more theories about their purpose and capabilities. Life, however, is simpler than the needs created by the marketing departments of tool companies. Let us therefore take a closer look at the subject.<\/p>

      Bevel angle<\/h3>

      A skilled woodworker will manage with almost any reasonable chisel bevel angle. However, we can assume that if we chisel with a chisel with a larger bevel angle, that is 25\u201330 degrees, we must be more careful about compression. I devoted a separate blog post to the phenomenon of compression in chisel work: compression in chisel work<\/a>.<\/p>

      Approach the base line gradually. If we take a chisel with a bevel angle close to 20 degrees \u2014 I work with such chisels \u2014 it will create significantly less compression, and therefore we can chisel more safely. Such a chisel, however, is not suitable for cutting away waste. Use it only if you have initially removed the waste, for example with a coping saw.<\/p>

      Chisel cross-section<\/h3>

      Chisels for dovetail joints are constructed so that their cross-section matches the sockets being chiseled. This is achieved either by heavily relieving the chisels, as in the case of my chisels that I work with \u2014 visible in the photos \u2014 or by using fishtail chisels.<\/p>

      \"dovetail
      Photo 3. An example of a fishtail chisel or a chisel with a cross-section that makes working on dovetail joints easier.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
      <\/figcaption><\/figure>

      This does not mean that it is impossible to correctly chisel the socket between the tails or the pins with other chisels. It will not, however, be as convenient as when using chisels intended for this type of work.<\/p>

      Ferrule reinforcing the handle<\/h3>

      Although when making dovetail joints we work with a mallet, a ferrule on the chisel handle is not necessary. It is used primarily in chisels intended for intensive impact work, such as mortise chisels, where it protects the handle from cracking.<\/p>

      Chisel length<\/h3>

      Choose a standard chisel length. The shorter it is, the harder it is to establish a right angle during work.<\/p>

      Steel<\/h3>

      The steel used in chisels is a vast subject. If we exclude chisels made of low-quality steel, often found in hardware stores, its importance when choosing a tool becomes secondary. In simple terms, we can say that the quality of the steel mainly affects how long the tool holds an edge, but also how easy it is to sharpen and how resistant the edge is to damage.<\/p>

      I most often choose Blue Spruce Toolworks chisels, visible in the photos, even though they require much more frequent sharpening than hand-forged Japanese chisels, which I also own. Why? Because in the case of chisels intended for making dovetail joints, not only sharpness matters, but also the geometry of the edge, which allows precise work in narrow spaces. The chisels from this brand work best in my work.<\/p>

      How to chisel? Chiseling technique<\/h2>

      Correct chiseling of the base line requires angle control, stable guidance of the chisel, and conscious work with the wood grain. This is a stage where it is easy to damage the joint, so it is worth working calmly and in stages. Avoiding compression and twisting of the chisel during work is particularly important.<\/p>

      Base line sections between the tails<\/h3>

      The base line sections between the tails are the easiest to chisel. What you need to pay attention to is chisel compression and the angle at which you work.<\/p>

      Initial chiseling of the base line<\/h3>

      To avoid compression, remove excess material in front of the base line so as to eliminate the risk of damaging it. In photo 4, the fragments of the base line where there is too much material above it to proceed with chiseling are marked in red. The fragments of the base line that are suitable for direct chiseling are marked in blue.<\/p>

      \"removing
      Photo 4. Before chiseling the base lines, remove excess material above them to avoid compression and therefore damaging the base line. The base lines that require initial chiseling are marked in red, and those that are suitable for direct chiseling are marked in blue.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
      <\/figcaption><\/figure>

      Watch out!<\/strong> Never take the risk and do not try to chisel the full depth of the socket. It is almost certain that tear-out will occur on the other side. Chisel slightly past half the width of the element.<\/p><\/div>

      Positioning the chisel in the line<\/h3>

      Place the chisel in the base line right next to the edge of one of the tails. Check with a light hand movement, twisting left and right, whether the chisel sits in the line.<\/p>

      \"positioning
      Photo 5. Positioning the chisel in the line. Make sure that the chisel \u201csits\u201d in the line with the entire edge.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
      <\/figcaption><\/figure>

      Establishing the chiseling angle<\/h3>

      Now it is time to establish the angle. It should be either a right angle or an obtuse angle from the back side of the chisel \u2014 about 1\u20132 degrees. Thanks to this, the tails will enter the pins, and the pins will perfectly contact the base lines. If you have trouble establishing a right angle, place a square behind the chisel.<\/p>

      \"setting
      Photo 6. Establishing a right angle when chiseling base lines using a square.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
      <\/figcaption><\/figure>

      Striking technique and concentration<\/h3>

      In woodworking, routine is a factor that reduces quality and leads to mistakes. It is especially easy to lose concentration when performing repetitive tasks.<\/p>

      To understand how professionals deal with this, it is worth looking at athletes. Tennis players perform dozens of serves during a match. Maintaining full focus all the time is impossible, so they have developed a method of switching between relaxation when there is no need to maintain attention and concentration when it is necessary.<\/p>

      Notice that almost every tennis player performs the same ritual before a strike. They bounce the ball twice on the ground, at the same time rocking on their feet in a precisely established rhythm and throwing the ball. All these actions are always performed in the same way. Why? Because it allows the body and mind to return to full focus for that fraction of a second when there will be no going back and they strike the ball. If something disrupts this ritual, they often repeat the entire sequence from the beginning. It is a conscious process that allows the mind to enter the highest level of focus exactly at the moment of the strike.<\/p>

      It is similar when chiseling. When you look at videos from my workshop, you will notice that first I position myself, grip the chisel and introduce it into the base line. With a delicate movement I check whether it is properly seated, while keeping the mallet ready the entire time. Then I make two very light strikes, which allow the tool to stabilize and let me enter full focus. Only after a moment does the proper strike follow. If something distracts me or I feel that the positioning is not perfect, I stop and start the whole process from the beginning. This approach allows me to chisel base lines all day without the risk of damaging them.<\/p>

      Watch out!<\/strong> In many situations, the chisel begins to spring on the material during work. When struck with the mallet, it bounces back, making a characteristic sound. Such springing can lead to damage to the base line. To avoid this, loosen the material in the clamp and press it down to the bench. You can also try pressing the chisel more firmly against the element.<\/p><\/div>

      Outer sections of the base line<\/h2>

      Chiseling the ends of the base line is difficult because we must simultaneously control the line in which we have seated the chisel and the side line. Through years of practice and hundreds of meters of chiseled dovetail joints, I have developed a chiseling technique that leaves us with clean, precisely chiseled base lines. While maintaining all the comments about chiseling base lines between the tails, we introduce an additional method.<\/p>

      Chiseling the ends of the base line<\/h3>

      In the first step, we chisel the ends of the base lines next to the cross base line so that the chisel does not damage it. It is important to chisel about 1\u20132 mm, no more. We do the same on the other side.<\/p>

      \"chiseling
      Photo 7. Beginning to chisel the ends of the base line. We position the chisel so that it does not damage the cross base line. We chisel 1\u20132 mm to only expose it.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
      <\/figcaption><\/figure>

      Chiseling the cross base line<\/h3>

      Once we have exposed the base lines from both sides, we place the element on its side and secure it in the clamp. We take the chisel intended for working on the section marked in yellow in photo 2 and, placing it between the side base lines, safely chisel out the waste. In this way, we can be sure that we will not damage any of the lines and that they will perfectly contact the corresponding element.<\/p>

      \"chiseling
      Photo 8. Safe chiseling of the side base line. After exposing the opposite base lines, you can safely chisel the side base line. Take a chisel slightly narrower than the thickness of the element and safely chisel between the lines.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>
      <\/figcaption><\/figure>

      How to clean the tails and the base line?<\/h2>

      Usually, after performing the operations described above, we need to check our tails and, if necessary, make corrections. Corrections are usually made without a mallet, unless there is a lot of material to remove.<\/p>

      The most common corrections are:<\/p>