{"id":6311,"date":"2026-04-16T18:43:43","date_gmt":"2026-04-16T16:43:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bensariworkshop.com\/jaskolcze-ogony-pilowanie-wczepow-krok-po-kroku-czesc-2\/"},"modified":"2026-04-16T20:34:40","modified_gmt":"2026-04-16T18:34:40","slug":"dovetail-joints-cutting-tails-step-by-step-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bensariworkshop.com\/en\/dovetail-joints-cutting-tails-step-by-step-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Dovetail joints \u2013 cutting tails step by step (part 2)"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

Cutting tails in dovetail joints is the stage where the quality of the joint depends directly on controlling the cutting angle and your sawing technique. The most important factor is achieving a square cut on the end grain of the workpiece \u2013 this determines how well the joint will fit.<\/p>

Why is sawing more difficult than it seems?<\/h2>

A saw is one of the more difficult tools to master, which is why the quality of dovetail joints at this stage depends more on your skill in using it than on the saw itself.<\/p>

What saw should you use for cutting the sides of dovetail tails?<\/h2>

I usually use a second-hand backsaw that I bought at a flea market in London. Among Western saws, backsaws are the most suitable for this task. The rigid spine stiffens the blade and provides better control over the cut. My saw has 12 teeth per inch and is designed for rip cutting, but it also works well for crosscuts, so I perform all operations with the same tool.<\/p>

If you already have your own habits and a steady hand, you can use whichever saw is most comfortable for you. I have seen woodworkers successfully cut dovetails with frame saws. Should they change their habits just because it is commonly accepted that dovetails are cut with backsaws? I don\u2019t think so.<\/p>

There is no single \u201ccorrect\u201d saw for dovetails. Skill and control over the tool are what matter most.<\/p>

A separate topic is the use of Japanese saws. Many of their proponents claim that the quality of the kerf is better and thinner. Maybe so. I own several Japanese saws and can use them, but I definitely prefer Western models. First, the kerf creates empty space, so its width does not matter to me when cutting tails. Second, I achieve perfect joints with my old backsaw, and most importantly \u2013 I am used to it and see no reason to abandon that habit. I do not discredit Japanese saws. If you are used to them, use them and refine your technique.<\/p>

What is most important when sawing the sides of dovetail tails?<\/h2>

The most important factor is a square cut on the end grain of the workpiece. This determines whether the joint will fit (see Photo 1). Of course, this assumes that during sawing you do not deviate too far from the intended angle of the tails.<\/p>

\"dovetail

Photo 1. Properly cut tail with a square end grain cut<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>

Why is a square cut on the end grain critical?<\/h2>

A square cut on the end grain is critical because it determines the accuracy of transferring the tails when laying out the pins in a dovetail joint, and ultimately whether the joint will be gap-free or not. If the end grain is not square, the pins will be either too tight or too loose \u2013 regardless of the accuracy of the subsequent work.<\/p>

\"dovetail

Photo 2. Error when cutting tails. End grain view. On the left, a correct square cut; on the right, an incorrect angled cut.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>

In dovetail joints, the pins are transferred directly from the tails, meaning they are laid out based on the tails that have already been cut. If we try to transfer a tail like the one shown in Photo 2 onto the mating piece from the narrower side (marked with a blue dot in Photo 2), we will cut the pin socket too narrow. As a result, we will either not be able to fit the tail, or, as shown in Photo 3, the tail will split the pin board and the workpiece will crack.<\/p>

\"split

Photo 3. Attempting to force a poorly cut tail into a socket that is too narrow resulted in the workpiece cracking.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>

Conversely, if we transfer such a tail onto the mating piece from the wider side (the red dot in Photo 2), we will cut a socket that is too wide, and the joint will be loose, as shown in Photo 4.<\/p>

\"loose

Photo 4. Pins laid out from a poorly cut tail. After assembly, a gap appears and the joint is loose.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>

What happens if the tail angle \u201cdrifts\u201d?<\/h2>

If you make a proper square cut on the end grain of the board on which you are cutting the tails, and later the angle of the tail deviates slightly from the laid-out angle (for example 1:6), nothing significant will happen. As long as you do not exceed certain critical values, this \u201cerror\u201d will be transferred to the pins during layout. The joint will still be correct. It may differ visually from other tails, but technically it will still be sound.<\/p>

However, it should be remembered that as you approach a square angle or exceed it, the joint will stop functioning properly (it will no longer lock itself). If the tail is cut at too acute an angle, it may shear off or crumble.<\/p>

A small deviation in the tail angle does not matter as long as a square cut on the end grain is maintained.<\/p>

How to properly saw dovetail tails \u2013 step by step technique<\/h2>

At this stage, maintaining control over the cutting angle and guiding the saw is crucial. This is where it is determined whether the tails will have the correct geometry and whether the joint will fit later without adjustments.<\/p>

To ensure the correct angle, several key elements must be considered: technique, how the cut is started, and control of the saw throughout the entire stroke.<\/p>

Sawing technique<\/h3>

From my observations, the most common mistakes when sawing dovetail tails are related to technique, and the most frequent of these is incorrect grip. The saw should be held with a pistol grip and an extended index finger. The saw should be an extension of your forearm \u2013 this is the basic condition for controlling the cut (see Photo 5). Stand so that your body does not cross the cutting line and your elbow has some freedom of movement. If the spine of the saw is not aligned with your forearm, during the forward and backward stroke you will have to correct the angle of your wrist to keep the saw in one plane. This will force you to shorten your stroke and reduce cutting accuracy.<\/p>

\"proper

Photo 5. Proper grip of the saw during cutting<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>

Key rules for sawing<\/h3>